Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
